In reply to Pacanas Dennis.
So what model is this?
When you say it runs a few seconds, is it struggling during that time?
Have you checked the start capacitor, if it has one?
In reply to Doug in s.d.ca.
Upon startup the pump motor will turn and run for a few seconds then trip the breaker. Hard to say if it’s leaking from pressure switch or check valve cause it has no time to build up air in system.
In reply to Mark.
I do not know. You could google, or ask your friendly neighborhood A/C specialist.
In reply to Rich.
Unlikely you’ll find one, unless it has a magnetic starter, and that doesn’t.
Trace the wires and figure it out. You might find some generic drawing of one – they’re all the same, except the motor, and THAT has to come from the motor manufacturer.
In reply to Dennis Pacanas.
Was the pressure switch “leaking” continuously when the pump stopped? It’s supposed to do that – open valve when motor stops. If it’s draining air from the tank at that point, you have an actual leak in the check valve, where the 1/4″ line goes to the tank. It also is where the line from the pump goes to the tank.
You’ll want to remove that assembly and see if it’s just clogged up. If you can clean it up so it seals, great. Otherwise you’ll have to replace it.
Good luck.
how do I find out what pressure and year and the important information about my smc oil-bath air compressor model 84 serial 1978
looking for a wiring picture for a Husky Air Scout 1.5 gallon oil free Air compressor
I have a 1978 MB with a York 210 Compressor. Still running R12. I replaced the seals and gaskets about 5 years ago. All worked, and still does, well. Good and cold. The problem is, the bottom gasket is seeping oil. (The factory service manual even says this is normal! Obviously, that was before Freon prices skyrocketed.) Is there an R12 compatible material I can use to make my own gasket, that WON’T eventually start to leak? All I see for sale is fiber. Appreciate your help.
In reply to Doug in s.d.ca.
I am having the same problem, replaced the run capacitor and pressure switch which was leaking from unloader valve. Motor starts up runs slow for a few seconds tripping the breaker. What else could be the problem?
In reply to Scott.
Yeah.
Click on the middle white title at the top of the page and then scroll down that page to trouble shooting.
If you don’t get it from doing that, come back with what you found.
But “hand over exhaust ports it blew oil back out.” You mean intake?